Down the Nile: Alone in a Fisherman's Skiff
while Rosemary Mahoney, in 1998, took a solo journey down the Nile in a seven-foot rowboat, she came upon sleek Egypt for herself. As a rower, she confronted crocodiles and testy river currents; as a feminine, she faced deeply-held ideals approximately international girls whereas carefully ultimate open to real friendship; and, as a visitor, she skilled occasions that ranged from the funny to the hair-raising--including an stumble upon that started as some of the most scary of her lifestyles and ended as an edifying and chastening lesson in human nature and cultural false impression. even if she's assembly Nubians and Egyptians, or discovering connections to Westerners who traveled up the Nile in past times--Florence Nightingale and Gustave Flaubert between them--Mahoney's educated interest concerning the global by no means ceases to captivate the reader.
"A pilgrimage approximately pilgrims and holy areas that's not merely enlightening but in addition very funny." -Paul Theroux (on The Singular Pilgrim)
"Mahoney is a perfectly potent catalytic agent: she is going to eire and simply makes the rustic ensue round her." -Jonathan Raban (on Whoredom in Kimmage)
"Mahoney, who has been rowing for 10 yr, brilliantly juxtaposes an account of her personal palm-blistering hours at the Nile....with the diary entries of 2 Victorian travelers-Gustave Flaubert and
— have been continuously wearing the Islamic veil, the lengthy textile wrapped round their heads and less than their chins. No hair exhibiting, no neck, simply the face published. The veil hung right down to the backs in their thighs over a black costume that hung to their ankles. they'd noble faces, complete voices, and walked with instantly backs. At 4 o’clock I ventured out to seem for Amr Khaled’s boat. town regarded as if it were baked mindless through the day. not anything moved. Even the river looked as if it would have.
Hair. A moment flooring used to be an indication of prestige; each person needed to have one. there have been many small outbuildings for animals right here and a community of low dust partitions to corral them. aged girls sat on stoops in black robes and veils. I by no means heard shouting the following, and within the time i used to be the following nobody had ever acknowledged hi to me or requested me the place i used to be going or attempted to promote me whatever or pleaded with me to rent them or beseeched me to provide them a pound or a pen. everybody regarded sleepy within the noon heat;.
position in Egypt make this river to any extent further forbidding, inaccessible, or unrowable than the other? A 12 months handed, and my fable didn't fade. i discovered myself spending afternoons in my neighborhood library, pawing via books approximately Egypt and the Nile, learning images, amassing information regarding the river and approximately others who had traveled on it. thousands of individuals — together with millions of foreigners — had traveled at the Nile, between them the most obvious centuries of Egyptian fishermen, farmers, and.
acknowledged, “to open a what?” “Hospital and intercourse tomb,” he stated dully, scratching his chin. The clinic sounded most probably sufficient, however the suggestion of a “sex” something being publicly celebrated by means of the Egyptian president used to be preposterous. during this Islamic country, intercourse, strictly forbidden outdoor marriage, was once now not an issue for public discourse or civic occasion. Human flesh, relatively women’s, was once to be hid, and although in Egypt the belief of the veil at puberty used to be formally an issue of.
With a blouse to guard myself from the mosquitoes that have been crazily strafing me, and eventually I fell right into a comatose sleep, waking each part hour to find that i used to be nonetheless alive, then dozing back, sweating underneath my slumbering bag, no longer being concerned in regards to the cockroaches — or even they have been scorpions now — that skittered over my palms. At 5 o’clock I awakened and began off down the river back within the milky morning, bleary-eyed and depressing. I glided previous the blazing police station, the place.